Some journeys go beyond mere destinations; they are about braving the unknown, listening to the silence, and capturing the whispers of a land untouched by time. My mid-January expedition to Spiti Valley was just that—a deep dive into the heart of winter, where snow leopards roam the ridges and the very air hums with an ancient, quiet magic.
My Mid-January 2024 trip to Spiti Valley turned out to be one of the toughest and most adventurous of my life. It was a 12-day journey through snow-covered landscapes, chasing the elusive snow leopard—an experience that fuels my wanderlust. Each day was filled with anticipation as I packed my gear and boarded my flight.
Upon landing, we continued by road, taking breaks at various spots along the way. As we climbed higher, I began to feel uneasy. Typically, I don’t sleep much while traveling, so I dismissed the drowsiness as mere exhaustion. But when we reached Kasol, a fellow traveller suffered a severe headache. A hospital visit revealed the truth: our oxygen levels were dropping. The doctor advised us to monitor our levels, and I was hit hard by the news—my oxygen level was too low to continue.
At that moment, we heard that two snow leopards had been spotted with a fresh kill. My heart sank. The doctor urged me to rest while my fellow photographers continued their journey. They captured incredible footage of the leopards on the very first day. I felt devastated but knew my health had to come first. At least they got to witness one of nature’s rarest moments.
After a few hours of rest, the doctor allowed me and another photographer to continue. Yet, the uneasiness lingered. While setting up my Nikon Z9 with a Nikkor 800mm lens at the edge of a cliff, I realized just how treacherous the terrain was. A misstep could lead to disaster. At one point, I nearly slipped on a loose rock, but our porters—our unsung heroes—were quick to assist.
The journey was even more special thanks to the company I kept. Traveling with world-renowned photographers Nisha Purushothaman and Hermis Haridas, along with an incredible team including Prasant Tatineni, Amith Krish, and Gopala Krishnan (GK), was a privilege. GK’s energy and resilience were truly inspiring. Even on the toughest days, when sickness and exhaustion weighed us down, he remained upbeat and motivated. His spirit galvanized our group.
As we ventured deeper into the valley, I noticed something unusual—there was no snow, just barren mountains. That year, snowfall had been delayed, likely due to climate change. It was disheartening. I was still battling headaches and sleepless nights, but then, something magical happened: snow began to fall. My energy surged, and I found myself dancing in the snow, revelling in my first snowfall in Spiti. No matter the challenges, I was determined to capture the snow leopards, even if it meant enduring the bitter cold.
Braving sub-zero temperatures was no easy feat. Standing for hours in the freezing cold drained our strength, but nature was kind. Each day brought snow leopard sightings, even if the conditions weren’t always ideal for photography. Just witnessing these magnificent creatures in their natural habitat was the greatest reward.
One day, our patience was truly tested. After hours of waiting, we watched two snow leopards resting on a slope. Just as fatigue began to creep in, they sprang into action, offering us a rare display of playful moments captured frame by frame. It was pure joy—a moment that made every hardship worth it.
My fellow photographers faced their own health challenges, but we supported each other, sharing motivation and camaraderie. That’s the power of a great team—the bond, the care, and the shared passion kept us going.
Amidst the challenges, I felt a profound spiritual connection with the landscape. The vast, snow-covered mountains and serene silence provided a backdrop for introspection. Each moment spent in nature felt like a meditation, allowing me to reconnect with my inner self. I often paused to soak in the beauty around me, feeling gratitude for the chance to witness such untouched splendor.
While the primary focus was on wildlife photography and the snow leopards, the rich culture of Spiti Valley added another layer to the experience. Interactions with local communities revealed their resilience and deep-rooted traditions.
The warmth of the people, their stories, and their way of life amidst such harsh conditions made me appreciate the land even more. Sharing a meal with a local family, savouring traditional dishes, and listening to tales of their life in the valley enriched my journey.
This expedition also underscored the importance of conservation. Witnessing the majestic snow leopard in its natural habitat reminded me of the delicate balance of ecosystems and the need to protect these magnificent creatures. The impact of climate change was evident, fuelling my desire to advocate for wildlife conservation. Each photograph I took was not just a representation of beauty but a call to action for preserving these landscapes for future generations.
Ultimately, this journey became a catalyst for personal growth. The challenges I faced—both physical and emotional—pushed me out of my comfort zone. I learned to embrace discomfort and uncertainty, realizing that growth often occurs in the most challenging moments. The bonds forged with my fellow travellers and the shared experiences created lasting friendships that I will cherish for years to come.
For anyone planning a winter expedition to Spiti, here are some essential tips:
Acclimatize: Spend at least a day at an intermediate altitude before ascending higher to reduce the risk of altitude sickness. Stay hydrated, and consider taking Diamox (Acetazolamide) if needed, after consulting a doctor.
Layer Up: Wear thermal gear, waterproof boots, and gloves to withstand freezing temperatures.
Carry Oxygen Cans: Portable oxygen can be lifesaving in case of altitude sickness.
Pack Extra Batteries: Cold weather drains batteries quickly, so keep extras handy.
Choose the Right Gear: A full-frame camera, a telephoto lens (at least 400mm), and a sturdy tripod are essential for wildlife photography.
Respect Nature: Be patient and let wildlife be. Ethical photography always comes first.
Spiti in winter isn’t just a trip; it’s a transformation. It strips away the unnecessary and teaches you to embrace the raw and relentless. The frozen winds, the untouched landscapes, the wild silence all leave an imprint on your soul.
If you crave solitude laced with adventure, dream of a canvas where nature paints in white and blue, and long to hear the echoes of a land lost in time—Spiti is waiting.
In the end, it’s not just about capturing moments; it’s about creating memories that linger long after the journey ends. So pack your bags, embrace the unknown, and let Spiti whisper its secrets to you.
