The Place:
Winter visit to the world famous Indian Wild Ass Sanctuary, the last refuge of the Indian wild ass (khur). Spread over 4954 km 2, it is the largest wildlife sanctuary in India and one of the last places on earth where the endangered wild ass sub-species Indian Wild Ass (Khur) (Equus hemionus khur) belonging to Asiatic Wild Ass Species Onager (Equus hemionus) can be spotted. The Rann of Kutch is a geographically unique landscape that was once an arm of the Arabian Sea. As the land separated from the sea by geological forces, it became a vast, featureless plain encrusted with salt that is inundated with water during the rains. The safari across the Little Rann visits the ‘bets’, islands on the ancient seabed that are now high grounds covered with grass and scrub.
Experience in Winter:
Visit to this humongous plain is an experience of a lifetime. Lot many wildlife enthusiasts and photographers visit this place for some beautiful species of mammals and migratory birds. We started our journey from Patdi, a small village where we stayed for a week and from where we took the all-time, brute off roader, Mahindra Thar, a two-ton vehicle to get us going on the harsh and rough terrain of the Rann. Morning mercury scale was 4-degree C, chilling winds in an open vehicle, I still feel that cold round my cheeks!
Rann offers a huge grassland which is perfect for flocks of Common Cranes to roost and refuel after a treacherous migration from north. Bird watchers and photographers witness many raptor species, including the world’s fastest and fiercest Peregrine Falcon which tops the speed of 300kmph while diving down for a prey, a mean machine made in wild!
My bucket list included a Houbara Bustard a.k.a. MacQueen’s bustard (Chlamydotis macqueenii) a small, shy species of bustard which demands a lot of patience to photograph. I’ve seen it many times through my lens but for once getting an eye-level image was a cherry on the cake!
Imperial Eagles and Steppe Eagles can be easily seen. Harrier species include Marsh Harrier, Pallid Harrier and Montagu’s Harrier which roost for a long period of time on the plains and scrubland if undisturbed. Long-legged Buzzard can also be found.
We also photographed a Pallid Scops Owl which has been recorded in Greater and Little Rann of Kutch, a rare and a perfectly camouflaged species which rests in small undercover of scrubs. Short eared owls too are a beautiful species to see and photograph. Some elusive raptors like Amur falcon & Lesser kestrel are still in my photography list. I hope one fine day I will photograph them!
Rann offers a fresh water reservoir which flourishes in winter with huge flocks of Lesser and Greater Flamingoes, Pelicans, Greylag Goose, few species of terns, herons. We witnessed a Marsh Harrier looking for prey in a huge spectrum of species beneath. Bar-headed Goose are also one of the goose species found here, they are the world’s highest-flying birds which breed in the extreme environment of Himalayan plains. Flight records also suggest that before the approaching winters in the mountains, they fly above the Himalayas and even above Mt. Everest to reach the warmer areas of Indian states, fascinating!
Marshes across the huge water mass is an optimum place for waders to roost and find food as well. Desert and fresh water merges here to form a great ecosystem for the survival of both desert and water species. Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse, has a distinct behavior in which male birds have been recorded to travel for 60 miles in search of water, having a sponge-like structure under its neck which stores water for juvenile birds. Amazing techniques developed for such a harsh, featureless environment.
During the time of dusk, golden light provides an opportunity to photograph beautiful rim-light and dramatic shots with the sun on horizon. We also photographed Desert Fox and puppies. During discussion with our local guide, he gave us the shocking account of the death of Desert Fox puppies caused by intruding stray dogs around the dens, that was a sad thing.
One morning we got great news about a species which is Critically Endangered, it was a Sociable Lapwing. Some local fellows had seen them around the marshes, we tried to search and finally, wow, got some images.
I hope to see this land flourishing with all those nature’s gems and be a part of some mega migratory events occurring without human intervention.
